Simon Ellis continues his three-month long cruise from Poole to the Isles of Scilly, taking in Polperro, Fowey, Falmouth, Porthleven, Mousehole and Land’s End
On the final leg of my three-month long cruise from Poole to the Isles of Scilly I woke up to find the rain had passed and better weather was on its way, although we knew there would still be a residual swell waiting for us. Not that the 4nm hop from Falmouth to the Helford River was going to pose too much trouble at chug speed.
On exiting the Fal, the expected Force 4 made its presence felt but by keeping it slow and steady we arrived at the entrance to the Helford within the hour. Once in the lee of the land, the wind and waves settled down and we picked up a mooring buoy.
Not wanting to risk a wet tender trip ashore, we summoned the water taxi to take us over to the Ferryboat Inn for an excellent lunch with a very pleasant view across the river, followed by a leg stretch before retiring back to the boat.
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Salcombe and Beyond: My Mid-Life Cruise Hits the West Country Coast
‘I sat for over an hour on my anchor seat just staring out to sea’
Day 68 10 July
We departed a glorious Helford at 1030 in bright sun and minimal wind before turning to starboard and throttling up to the Manacles waypoint. The sea was lovely and flat and we arced round to line up for the Lizard, clocking up 12nm before the swell started.
It was only a Force 3-4 but the combination of wind against tide over an Atlantic swell proved very uncomfortable, so we eased back to a 5-knot chug. After rounding the Lizard, I changed to a north-west bearing for Newlyn harbour, engaged autopilot and after three hours and another 20 miles of riding the rollercoaster through Mounts Bay, we arrived and secured a finger pontoon.
Newlyn is very industrial with fishing boats everywhere and limited facilities. Ironically, by the time we’d recovered and relaxed, the swell had dropped and the sea looked remarkably calm. That swell had spooked me, despite all my preparations.
We visited Penzance harbour on foot to enjoy a curry at the Red Chilli restaurant before walking home under a moonlit sky.
Day 69 11 July
After being granted permission from the harbourmaster to slip the lines, we departed Newlyn at 0930 and chugged past Penzance to Mousehole. With an ebbing tide and knowing the harbour dries, not to mention some uncertainty of the anchorage position outside the harbour, we decided to gvive it a miss and get back underway to find the Minack Theatre.
Having read all about Rowena Cade’s vision to design, build and open this remarkable cliffside theatre, I was keen to appreciate it from the sea. Struggling to locate it on the nav charts, we used Google Earth to line up a 90-degree transit approach while closely monitoring the plotter. And there it was, clinging to the cliffs in all its rocky glory.
We spent a few minutes taking in the scene before pressing on towards Land’s End. I had decided that with the boat not reaching full revs and some anxiety over the Atlantic swell returning, a day trip to the Isles of Scilly felt a step too far.
That said Easily Distracted was loving the conditions, the bow getting airborne over the crests and landing with a gentle swoosh and plenty of spray.
Before long, the southerly cardinal waypoint came into view and we arced round towards Longships lighthouse a few miles off Land’s End. Here the swell suddenly doubled in height and now half the boat was airborne off each crest and the climb up the following swell was dragging on the props and straining the engine.
On a mooring buoy in the Helford – not far in the water taxi to the Ferryboat Inn
This was all perfectly normal but my paranoia always imagines the worst, amplifying my heartbeat. Once the chartplotter had confirmed we were further south-west than Land’s End, giving me the satisfaction of covering the entire south coast from Poole to Land’s End, I gently turned through 180 degrees and began to surf down the swell at 28 knots, trimming the drives up to prevent nose-diving into the next one.
Knowing that we were now on the way home with the Atlantic swell behind me brought a huge sense of relief. Our new destination was St Michael’s Mount.
Tom Cunliffe’s cruising guide made anchoring outside the Mount, 200m west of the harbour entrance, sound so easy despite the presence of rocks just 100m north-west of it and some uncertainty over the holding. Matt wasn’t keen but after circling slowly over the spot, we dropped the hook in 6m and deployed 20m of chain, achieving a stable hold almost immediately.
The bacon was soon sizzling and we revelled in the moment being so close to the Mount with the sun out, the water as calm as oil and the whole bay to ourselves. We wanted to be at the Lizard no later than 1400 so at midday we set off once again, gently chugging to Porthleven and then Mellin Cove, getting in close enough to appreciate their beauty and locate the small harbour entrance but choosing not to push our luck by attempting to enter it.
Matt and Simon
Then, it was throttles down and a 270-degree arc to the Lizard. We timed it perfectly to avoid the tidal race and Matt even spied some dolphins getting airborne off our port bow but sadly they were too fast for any photographs.
Our next stop was Coverack Cove just inside the Manacles, a small bay with a few yachts at anchor but with sub 14-degree water I wasn’t tempted to take a dip. The final 9nm back to Falmouth were covered at a relaxed pace, albeit with the front cover up to shelter from the northerly breeze.
On entering the Fal we went to pick up a mooring in St Mawes only to discover I had left the boat hook at Newlyn. As rain was forecast, we decided to divert to Falmouth Haven, which duly found us a berth. What a superb day, and while I hadn’t quite made my ultimate destination of the Isles of Scilly, a safe return journey beyond Land’s End was satisfaction enough.
Easily Distracted in Newlyn harbour
Day 70 12 July
Given the rain, we settled on a return visit to the Minack Theatre by car and looking down from the cliffs. I wasn’t sure how I had missed the sandy beach on the east side, which would have been perfect for anchoring yesterday. We also visited the delightfully quaint Mousehole harbour and spotted a yacht anchored just where Mr Cunliffe said you could, funny that. Next time!
We even nipped into Newlyn to retrieve my boat hook before returning to Falmouth for a few drinks in the Royal Cornwall Yacht Club then back on board for chilli and rice and a glass of red.
Day 71 13 July
The forecast was superb and as Matt left early I had agreed to meet up with my old uni mate Steve at Pendennis marina for a spot of shark fishing from his sportsfisher. With his father also on board, we blasted a few miles east of Falmouth to fish for shark bait. Before long we had caught a perfectly good haul of mackerel, whiting, scad and pollock.
En route to Land’s End via the Minack Theatre
Now I’d have settled for that but no, this was merely sacrificial and after motoring a further 15nm offshore, out came the big rods and reels to entice some blue fin sharks. Despite all the effort no blue fin were landed, blaming our lack of success on the perfect weather. The nearest I got was a dogfish, which is technically a shark, so I’m claiming that as a win.
Returning to our berth at around 1700, we gave the boat a thorough clean and then reconvened at Gylly Beach Cafe for sundowners before wandering over to Steve’s house for a medley supper of the remaining ‘bait’ fish and a few games of pool and darts. I could really get used to this boating life.
Day 72 14 July
With new crew arriving mid-afternoon, it was time for some laundry and boat jobs on Easily Distracted before welcoming Dazza aboard.
Hard to find a more dramatic setting than the unique Minack Theatre
Day 73 15 July
Heavy rain scuppered my plan to make Mevagissey so we spent the morning swotting up on Dazza’s RYA Day Skipper theory and walking to the top of Penryn River.
Day 74 16 July
We departed Falmouth around 0900 after another small fuel top-up and soon covered the 32nm getting to the drying harbour of Porthscatho, anchoring for brunch at Gorran Haven and checking out the adjacent Portmellon Cove and Mevagissey harbour before pressing on to Fowey by 1500.
The only stop we couldn’t make was the private Charlestown harbour. I had intended to poke my nose in but there was a minefield of oyster farming buoys outside in St Austell Bay so I abandoned the idea for fear of snagging the props. I had also hoped to anchor at Polkerris beach in Par but the westerly wind made this uncomfortable so after some circling, we continued round the headland to line up a transit to enter Fowey River.
Tempting beach in the shadow of the Minack Theatre
We found a different mooring pontoon midstream in Pond Pill and being sheltered from the wind, we explored the area by tender and paddleboard. Then, a repeat disaster with the toilet outlet pipe blocked again. With no access to walks ashore we were reduced to a bucket! After two wasted hours trying to fix it, we took to the tender and Dazza treated me to a meal at the King of Prussia fish restaurant.
Day 75 17 July
Despite trying the chandlery and local shipwrights to source something we could ram the pipe clear with, it remained firmly blocked. Bucket on hand, we made for Lantic Bay for a final four hours of chilling in Dazza’s company before another crew change back in Fowey, where Jon, another old uni mate, took his place.
The view over Mousehole harbour on our day off due to the rain
Day 76 18 July
Another glorious day with plans to cover the 26nm to Plymouth. We departed before noon and chugged along at 6 knots making the most of a free knot of tide. We nudged in close to Polperro harbour but thought better of entering at this low’ish state of tide and chugged on, arriving in Looe at 1230 for a late brunch and a swim, now the sea temperature had risen to a more agreeable 19 degrees.
After passing a few military ships we entered the Sound, taking the western approach through Cawsands where we were taunted by a remote-control craft that maintained a collision course approach despite me trying to motor away. I could imagine the base control all laughing at our puzzled faces!
We docked back at Queen Anne’s Battery marina in Plymouth and met up with our old friend Squealer again for an onboard BBQ and drinks.
Shark fishing was fun but apart from a dogfish, the sharks refused
Day 77 19 July
Richard from Power Marine & Auto drove down from Cobbs Quay to fix the toilet. He knows my boat inside out and I was immensely grateful to him for coming all this way to replace the toilet outlet pipe. His diagnosis was a heavy build up of urate crystal – charming!
Allstars at QAB also gave me some discarded stainless steel shrouds, just the job for clearing future blockages! Robbo and I then picked up a buoy just north of Drake’s Island for some afternoon lounging in the sun and a few bragging drone photos to our hockey team-mates. In the evening we moored up at Yacht Haven, the only marina in Plymouth we hadn’t yet visited.
Mousehole harbour remains wonderfully unspoilt and tranquil
Day 79 21 July
We departed early for the River Yealm. It’s only 5nm east around Great Mewstone rocks. It was a lumpy Force 3 wind taken beam on so we endured a fair bit of rolling into Wembury Bay but we were delighted to find space at the end of a midstream pontoon in Yealm Pool, giving us unimpeded stern access to launch the tender.
We launched Little Distraction with the rising tide to explore further up the river and then back up Newton Creek to find Noss Creek. The scenery was beautiful but the wind had whipped up the surface waters a little to wet our derrières.
By chance the annual regatta between Noss and Newton Ferrers clubs was underway with lots of fun being had, especially the kids who launched themselves off anything above the waterline, and numerous competitive gig races being cheered on by opposing sides of the creek.
On the River Yealm
We had timed the journey perfectly, arriving 90 minutes before high tide to have our pick of tender tie-ups outside The Ship. A relaxing Sunday afternoon was enhanced by some comedy as shocked owners returned to find the water lapping at the doors of their cars. What a delightful location – no wonder local house prices are as high as they are!
Day 80 22 July
An 1100 departure gave us clearance over the sandbar, dodging the thoughtfully positioned lobster pots almost directly outside the channel as we went.
My novice crew passed the rocking and rolling test as we made slow and steady passage into, over and down the waves. After passing Mewstone the waves died down, allowing me to open the throttles for a brief finale thrill for Squealer and his fiancé Dawn.
We moored at Queen Anne’s Battery and tucked into a tasty lunch at Waypoint Bar in dazzling sun before the crew departed and I had an early night. The following day I’d booked an 0800 lift and scrub which I hoped would address the loss of WOT for the 150nm return home to Poole.
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